Answered

Explain how the ocean floor affects when and how waves break. Explain how the ocean floor affects when and how waves break.

Answer :

Answer:

As waves approach the shore, the bottom of the wave meets the ocean floor. As they drag across the bottom, the front waves slow down, and wavelength is reduced. ... When the wave steepness (the ratio between wave height and wavelength) exceeds a ratio of 1:7, it becomes unstable and breaks.

Explanation:

Go Question: Other Questions